I would start by removing the progressive linkage. In that case, and if you have an EGR valve, I might be suspicious of something going on there. (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. My Sniper is 99% great! Thank you very much. Sometimes an engine can produce enough vacuum to pull the secondaries open slightly. Then, the next time I cranked it, the idle went high and won't come down!" The engine has 14: 1 compression ratio, we can not use gasoline. If you set the RPM above idle to start ramp too high, then it may not ever get down to the RPM above idle to re-enable. The Sniper resets the TPS to 0% each time that you key the system on. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. Also if I give it a I readjusted my IAC, now it's perfect. Once you've done this, the next natural step is to transfer the learn table to the base map, then go in and smooth out the sharp edges, which are going to be at these transitional states. I'm new to the efi thing and any help would be seriously appreciated. (If you do this you will need to reset the -40 degree setting mentioned at the top of this article. Tps is saying 26% when it at idle. Thanks again Chris, your help has been invaluable.If anyone is considering going EFI, Chris is the man to chat with. I have been reading these posts and have learned a lot. I was 20 minutes into a drive yesterday when all of the sudden the RPM increased not commanded. other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. You advise would be greatly appreciated. But you've got to find where air is getting into your engine.The reason it's going up as high as 2400 RPM is because once you press the throttle beyond 1% the IAC opens to the park position. In the time it takes to add your email address you can be at the top of the heap for getting the latest information from our authority. The Sniper EFI system looks at the closed-loop fuel compensation required to reach your target AFR. Lubricate the linkage so there isn't as much native resistance. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. No air should be able to pass. Any suggestions? It only lowers to 2-6% when I take my foot off the gas. AGAIN This is Intermittent meaning on a recent trip I stopped 3 times and issued occurred once. This car has never idled under 900 without stalling with 3 carbs and does the same thing with sniper edit. First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. My car will now start when its cold, but after about 30 seconds the idle drops down and begins to run like crap. Is there away to lean the idle out? Interesting question. The "Gauge Text" is what would be shown on a 2-1/16 gauge or the Avenger handheld display. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. (It should be at or near 60 PSI at idle. Its timed to 36 degrees. I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. It is working fine when you restart the car, controlling idle perfectly at 8 steps open so it is unlikely to fail when the car warms up--or correct itself instantly when you restart it..So, if you don't have any vacuum leak, and the throttle plates are fully closed, the only thing I can guess is something is causing your ignition timing to change. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. It drops about 200rpm when clutch engages. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. Seems to behave more better now. Plus, you can email that file to me and I can be of more help. Let If your TPS has snuck up to 2% then your IAC will be at the hold position, which by default is 30%. At that point the tps is pretty high, then shut the ignition off, pull the tape restart the engine and idle goes into hold mode and idle is through the roof. I have replaced the IAC motor and the problem remains. Thanks for all your help Chris! (Note: in the original version of this post we had a section about checking the idle speed curve setting. Both answers you've received greatly oversimplify the truth in favor of the answerer. The only way to do this is by installing a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. However, whenever you start changing things, you can get into a chain reaction. There is no real mystery here. But I wanted to go ahead and answer this so that it would make sense to someone who might not go that route.I think the first thing I'd do is try another pressure gauge. If I try and get the 2-10% i get all the way up to 1200 rpm. The next time it happens is the perfect opportunity to find the problem. started up the engine. At this time, TPS is 0%, IAC is 50 to 60%. The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. $107.95. There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. You just need to go back through the IAC adjustment procedure now that idle timing control is enabled. Hi Chris thanks in advance for any tips. Which means you either need to increase that number or increase the ramp decay time. I'm wonder if the iac can cause this. The window you saw in the image above pops up. Part# 538-13. These aren't generic newsletters either but instead personalized emails. Thanks. Genuine Walbro fuel pumps are virtually bullet-proof. And increasing your idle via the idle screw was also a good idea, because that will lower your amount of IAC that is necessary to keep your engine at the target idle speed. The car cruises fine, and if I was to keep idle at 2000rpm the issue wont happen, its only when the car tries to ramp down to idle position.Thank you for your help, any advice would be appreciated.Thank you,Eric, Whenever we see the AFR go to "Heating" that is an indication that the ECU has been reset. I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. If It will learn the fueling eventually either way, it's just that one might get you there a little faster.If the idle is fine at start-up but then increases after you depress the throttle then you might need to lower your IAC Hold Position a bit. This software is going to allow you to open both the configuration file and the datalogs that you create, overlay them and you can get a much better idea of what is happening. I'm also having a high idle problem but its different. It does this with the engine off. With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. Yes, let me know how that setup process works. Idles ok, runs great cruising, but from a stand still or downshifting and making a turn, when I get back into it, it wants to fall on its face. Drop the IAC parked position a bit at each temperature point and sort of back into the solution. If I adjust idle screw out to get the tps to zero or even 1% the engine will not idle. Then Friday night as I was driving home, the car started acting up. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? Thank you for any advice. port that goes right on the inlet of your Sniper and makes installation a breeze.If your fuel pressure is solid at about 60 PSI then you should start looking at Does anyone have photos of this additional return spring they installed? I will a, Scott has been very helpful and informative on guiding me through the purchasing and installation of my terminator X max system. You will find a startup IAC percentage, an amount of time it holds at that percentage, and an amount of time it takes to idle down to the normal idle speed.By default, that number is 50% at normal operating temperature. I asked him a million questions and waited a long time to save up before purchasing the system and I have asked a lot of questions throughout the installation process. If the connection is loose it will cause the system to shut fuel off because the signal telling the EFI the motor is turning stops (to prevent excess fuel from being dumped in the motor). Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. That's what you're seeing. This can cause the engine to run rough and may even lead to engine damage. Consider adding fuel in the AE vs TPS and/or AE vs MAP ROC tables in the area where the stumble is occuring.Since this is happening at such low TPS levels it is possible that your engine would prefer a lower (richer) target AFR number at idle. Chris, It starts cold fine, its just when its hot. Going lower with the blanking might pay dividends, but there is so little room below 7/8 that you will quickly be in a range where every tiny variation in the TPS or MAP is throwing extra fuel into the engine. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. It's hard to know what the previous owner did right versus wrong. no timing control. Based on your situation above as well as some of other experiences, I recognized that I needed to improve my tuning procedures above to better explain what steps to take if that 10-step process doesn't completely solve the problem. https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/parts/19210007.html, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.3128#post83128, If this is your first visit, be sure to Either the Walbro pumps you are getting are not genuine (lots of forgeries being sold) or else you have something that is killing them. So if you are trying to achieve a stoichiometric mixture in ethanol (which is achieved at an AFR of 9.0:1) then you should continue to target 14.7:1 since that is what will be displayed. I've been having problems with my sniper efi just shutting off. I think that the more important point is that Holley kept sending him units until everything was working. He thought that something was wrong because when he set the idle 50 RPM below his target the resulting IAC postion was far too big. This curve turns the idle speed down as the engine warms. Once engine is warmed up been driving for awhile. Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. Sorta similar to a carb having the idle mixture set incorrectly (rich) or the idle speed too low. Should I just disable idle timing control? What must remain foremost in your mind is that the only thing that can cause the idle to increase is additional air getting into the engine. I have one customer who is having some similar issues and his AFR is down at 9.6:1 when it won't start.

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